The Guide

Choosing the right switch shapes the feel and sound of your whole board. Here’s a quick overview of the four main types:

  • Linear – buttery smooth, fast, quiet.
  • Tactile – a clear bump without the click.
  • Clicky – bump and audible click; loud, retro.
  • Hall Effect (magnetic) – contactless precision, tunable actuation.

Quick picks:

Pure speed & low noise → Linear

Feedback without noise → Tactile

Love audible clicks → Clicky

Bleeding-edge control → Hall Effect

For more information, click here.

Key Specifications

Linear Switches

  • Feel: Smooth top-to-bottom (no bump)
  • Actuation: Light–medium (≈ 45–60g)
  • Sound: Quiet (mainly bottom-out)
  • Best for: Gamers/streamers, speed typing
  • Avoid if: You need tactile feedback

Tactile Switches

  • Feel: Noticeable mid-press bump (no click)
  • Actuation: Medium (≈ 50–65g)
  • Sound: Soft “thock,” not loud
  • Best for: Typists wanting feedback
  • Avoid if: You want near-silence or ultra-light presses

Clicky Switches

  • Feel: Tactile bump with audible click
  • Actuation: Medium–heavy (≈ 50–75g)
  • Sound: Loud, typewriter-like
  • Best for: Fans of audible feedback/retro vibe
  • Avoid if: You share quiet spaces

Hall Effect Switches

  • Feel: Smooth, contactless (often linear-like)
  • Actuation: Light–medium (≈ 30–60g), adjustable on many boards
  • Sound: Ultra-quiet (varies by design)
  • Best for: Pro gamers, analog control, tech tinkerers
  • Avoid if: Tight budget or non-compatible standard PCBs

Pros

Linear: Fast, consistent travel; low noise; great for repeated keystrokes.


Tactile: Clear feedback reduces errors; satisfying “thock” without being loud.


Clicky: Strong auditory + tactile confirmation; very deliberate feel.


Hall Effect: No electrical contacts (less wear); adjustable actuation; rapid repeat and advanced features.

Cons

Linear: Easier to bottom-out; can feel “featureless” to some typists.


Tactile: Bump can slow very rapid inputs; some variants still make noise.


Clicky: Loud (office/room-share unfriendly); can be fatiguing over long sessions.


Hall Effect: Higher cost; requires compatible PCB/firmware; not universal with standard hot-swap boards.

Common Mistakes

Picking clicky for a quiet office or shared space.


Choosing linear for typing when you actually want feedback.


Ignoring actuation force (too light/heavy → fatigue or errors).


Expecting Hall Effect to work on any standard PCB (check compatibility first).


Judging sound without keycaps/foam/case in mind—acoustics are a full-build result.

Key Takeaways

Your switch choice defines feel, feedback, and noise—match it to your environment and use case.


Linear = speed/quiet, Tactile = feedback, Clicky = loud/classic, Hall Effect = tunable/advanced.


Check actuation force and compatibility (especially for Hall Effect).


Test before you buy if possible, and remember: the perfect board is the one built your way.

Buy Switches

Your keyboard case shapes the sound, feel, weight, durability, RGB look, and overall vibe of your build. Below is a quick, plain-English comparison of popular case materials and when to pick each.

Quick picks:

Deep, muted sound → Acrylic or Wood

Crisp, loud keystrokes → Aluminum or Brass

Unique aesthetics → Wood, Acrylic, Carbon Fiber

Budget-friendly → Plastic (ABS/PC/PBT)

Maximum rigidity & durability → Stainless Steel or Carbon Fiber

Best all-rounder → Aluminum

Key Specifications

Plastic (ABS / Polycarbonate / PBT)

  • Sound: Hollow/“plasticky”; PC leans softer “thock.”
  • Feel/Flex: More flex; comfy and forgiving.
  • Weight: Light. Cost: Low. RGB: Excellent diffusion (esp. PC).
  • Use: Beginner builds, RGB-heavy setups.

Aluminum

  • Sound: Crisp, bright “clack.”
  • Feel/Flex: Rigid, premium.
  • Weight: Medium–heavy. Cost: Mid–high. RGB: Subtle.
  • Use: Most common enthusiast choice; versatile.

Brass

  • Sound: Deep, resonant; very “solid.”
  • Feel/Flex: Ultra-rigid.
  • Weight: Heavy. Cost: High. RGB: Minimal diffusion.
  • Use: Luxury builds, weights/inlays.

Stainless Steel

  • Sound: Loud, bright; can be pingy without dampening.
  • Feel/Flex: Extremely stiff, durable.
  • Weight: Very heavy. Cost: High. RGB: Minimal.
  • Use: Niche, showcase durability/rigidity.

Acrylic

  • Sound: Soft, muted; pleasant thock.
  • Feel/Flex: Slight flex = gentle bounce.
  • Weight: Light–medium. Cost: Low–mid. RGB: Great diffusion.
  • Use: Layered cases, DIY kits, RGB shows.

Wood

  • Sound: Warm, rounded.
  • Feel/Flex: Firm but not harsh.
  • Weight: Medium. Cost: Varies by craft/wood. RGB: Depends on design.
  • Use: Unique/artisanal builds.

Carbon Fiber

  • Sound: Bright, snappy.
  • Feel/Flex: Zero flex; performance-oriented.
  • Weight: Very light. Cost: High. RGB: Limited diffusion.
  • Use: Travel boards, high-performance rigs.

Pros

Plastic: Affordable, forgiving, great RGB.

Aluminum: Balanced, premium feel, widely available.

Brass: Lux look/weight; deep, resonant acoustics.

Stainless: Maximum stiffness and durability.

Acrylic: Muted acoustics, RGB-friendly, approachable price.

Wood: Unique aesthetics, warm tone, one-of-a-kind grain.

Carbon Fiber: Ultra-light, rigid, “fast” feel.

Cons

Plastic: Can sound hollow without foam/dampening.


Aluminum: Can be sharp/bright if undampened.


Brass: Expensive, very heavy; fatiguing to move.


Stainless: Loud/bright; needs careful dampening; heavy.


Acrylic: Scratches easier; less impact-resistant than metals.


Wood: Quality varies by craft; sensitive to humidity.


Carbon Fiber: Costly; brighter sound; limited RGB diffusion.

Common Mistakes

  • Choosing stainless/brass for portability—weight adds up fast.
  • Expecting acrylic to be as durable as metal; it isn’t.
  • Picking plastic and skipping foam/dampening, then blaming the case for hollowness.
  • Assuming wood needs no care—humidity and finish matter.
  • Ignoring that case material isn’t the only acoustic factor (plate, mount, foam, keycaps all matter).
  • Buying for RGB diffusion but selecting metal cases that won’t showcase it.

Key Takeaways

Case material sets your build’s acoustic character, rigidity, weight, and look.


Aluminum is the safest all-round pick; acrylic/wood for warm/muted & RGB; brass/stainless for ultra-rigid statement builds; carbon fiber for light, snappy performance; plastic for budget/RGB and flexibility.


Plan dampening (foam, gaskets, tape mods) to fine-tune any material.


Match material to your priorities: sound goal, portability, RGB, budget, and maintenance.

Buy Cases

Your keyboard plate sits between switches and the PCB. It changes feel (flex/stiffness), sound (clack vs thock), weight, and price. Pick a material that matches your sound goal, typing comfort, and budget.

Quick picks:

Muted, thocky → Polycarbonate (PC) or POM

Rich resonance → Brass

Balanced all-rounder → Aluminum or FR4

Featherweight & stiff → Carbon Fiber

Key Specifications

Aluminum

  • Feel: Medium stiffness (balanced)
  • Sound: Bright, resonant “clack”
  • Weight: Moderate
  • Price: ~€15–€40

Brass

  • Feel: Very stiff
  • Sound: Deep, rich, resonant
  • Weight: Heavy
  • Price: ~€30–€60+

Polycarbonate (PC)

  • Feel: Very soft, bouncy
  • Sound: Muted, “thocky”
  • Weight: Light
  • Price: ~€10–€25

FR4 (fiberglass/PCB material)

  • Feel: Moderate flex
  • Sound: Balanced, controlled
  • Weight: Light
  • Price: ~€10–€20

Carbon Fiber

  • Feel: Very stiff
  • Sound: Bright, airy (often needs dampening)
  • Weight: Ultra-light
  • Price: ~€25–€50+

POM

  • Feel: Slight flex, very smooth presses
  • Sound: Deep but cleaner than PC
  • Weight: Light–moderate
  • Price: ~€15–€30

Pros

Aluminum: Well-rounded; easy recommendation; consistent feel.


Brass: Lux look/weight; big, rich acoustic presence.


PC: Comfortable bounce; quiet/muted character; budget-friendly.


FR4: Durable, heat-resistant; neutral tuning that works everywhere.


Carbon Fiber: Extremely light yet rigid; crisp response.


POM: Smooth key feel; deep tone without getting dull.

Cons

Aluminum: Can be sharp/bright if the rest of the build is also stiff.

Brass: Expensive and heavy; can overpower softer builds.

PC: May feel too soft/spongy for fast gaming; scratches easier.

FR4: Less “character” than metals; can sound plain without tuning.

Carbon Fiber: Premium pricing; brightness may need extra dampening.

POM: Availability/compatibility can be spotty; slightly pricier than PC.

Common Mistakes

  • Picking brass when you want a light travel board.
  • Choosing carbon fiber expecting a muted sound (it’s bright/stiff).
  • Assuming plate alone sets sound—mount style, case, foam, keycaps also matter.
  • Ignoring layout compatibility (ANSI/ISO, stepped caps, split backspace) with your PCB.
  • Forgetting switch type affects feel (tactile bumps feel stronger on softer plates).
  • Not budgeting for dampening (foam/poron/tape) if you choose brighter materials.

Key Takeaways

Plate material is a major lever for feel + acoustics; match it to your goals.


Muted/thocky: PC or POM — Balanced: Aluminum or FR4 — Rich/resonant: Brass — Light & stiff: Carbon Fiber.


Always confirm layout & thickness compatibility with your PCB/case, and plan minimal dampening to fine-tune the final sound.

Buy Plates